Saturday, February 26, 2011

Online Bullying


On February 26, 2011, I received a warning message on my youtube channel from someone who claims to be Yemeni intelligence that reads:


مرحبا مخبارات امن الدوله تحذرك من اثارة الفوضى من الافضل انك ترعى مصالح وطنك شكرآ

"Hello, this is national intelligence. This is a warning. Don't cause chaos, its better for you to keep national interest in mind. Thank you"

http://arabrevolution.posterous.com/youtube-account-claims-to-be-yemeni-intellige

Thursday, February 24, 2011

Proteste, Gewalt und Todesopfer

In Jemen reißt der Widerstand gegen den Präsidenten nicht ab

Jemen bleibt unruhig. Die Protestaktionen gegen Präsident Ali Abdallah Saleh gehen weiter. Beim Angriff auf Demonstranten in der Hauptstadt Sanaa wurden am Dienstagabend zwei Menschen getötet. Sicherheitskräfte hatten das Feuer auf eine Sitzblockade vor der Universität eröffnet.

Am Mittwoch kam es sowohl in Sanaa als auch in Aden und Taiz zum Einsatz von Gewalt. In der Hauptstadt gab es Auseinandersetzungen zwischen Gegnern und Anhängern des Präsidenten. Die Bloggerin Atiaf Alwazir aus Sanaa gegenüber ND am Telefon: »Saleh-Aktivisten werfen Steine auf die Gegner der Regierung, die daraufhin manchmal zurückwerfen. Ich hoffe, diese Straßenschlachten werden nicht schlimmer.« Außerdem werde seit der Nacht zu Montag im westlichen Teil des Zentrums der Platz vor dem Haupttor der Sanaa-Universität besetzt. »Es werden jeden Tag mehr Leute, die zur Universität kommen und in Zelten übernachten. Zurzeit sind es etwa 2000 Demonstranten. Die Leute nennen den Platz vor der Universität inzwischen ›Platz des Wandels‹.«

Atiaf Alwazir, die täglich an dem Camp vor der Universität für neue Beiträge in ihrem Blog recherchiert, beobachtet seit Montagmittag die Präsenz von Stammesmitgliedern, die von außerhalb kommen. Zwar sind die Stammesleute nicht bewaffnet, dies ist innerhalb der Hauptstadt verboten, aber ihre Gegenwart sollte eigentlich die Sicherheitsorgane vor Gewaltanwendung abschrecken. Denn werden Stammesmitglieder angegriffen, muss die Zentralregierung Vergeltungsmaßnahmen befürchten. Dennoch attackierten Sicherheitskräfte Dienstagnacht um 23.30 Uhr die friedlichen Demonstranten im Camp, berichtete gegenüber ND Khaled al-Anesi, ein Mitglied des »Jugendbewegung für den Wandel« in Sanaa. »Ich war bei dem Überfall dabei. Die Polizei schoss auf die unbewaffneten Studenten. Zwei Menschen starben, 26 wurden verletzt, einige von ihnen schwer.«

Noch unheilvoller ist die Lage in Aden. Von dort berichtete Anssaf Maju, Parlamentsabgeordneter der islamischen Oppositionspartei Al-Islah, am Telefon: »Es gab bisher elf Tote in Aden. Überall in der Stadt sind Polizisten und Sicherheitskräfte in Zivil auszumachen.« Der Oppositionsführer Maju fordert Saleh auf, den Protest zu respektieren und einen friedlichen Regimewechsel einzuleiten.

Die Partei Al-Islah, die sich seit mehreren Tagen offen an den Protesten auf der Straße beteiligt, fordert dort auf Transparenten und in Sprechchören »Demokratie und politische Freiheiten«, »Zukunft für die Jugend«, »Gleichheit«, »Bekämpfung der Korruption« und »Die Einhaltung von Menschenrechten«, berichtet Maju, dem zufolge auch am Mittwoch 3000 Demonstranten friedlich auf der Straße protestierten.

Auch in Taiz starb bisher mindestens ein Demonstrant bei den Protestaktionen gegen den seit 32 Jahren regierenden Präsidenten Saleh. Ghamdan, ein Student aus Taiz von der Jemenitischen Jugend für den Wandel sagte ND am Telefon, dass die Demonstranten den Platz vor dem Safar-Busbahnhof in Freiheitsplatz umbenannt haben. In Taiz, wo die jüngste Protestwelle ihren Ausgang nahm, demonstrierten am Mittwoch den 14. Tag in Folge Studenten, unabhängige Oppositionelle und Anhänger von Oppositionsparteien.

ND-Karte: Wolfgang Wegener

Thursday, February 17, 2011

Jemens Probleme nicht schicksalhaft

Sechster Tag der Proteste der Opposition

Bei Zusammenstößen von Anhängern und Gegnern des jemenischen Präsidenten Saleh sind am Mittwoch vier Menschen verletzt worden. Die Regierungskritiker waren auf ihrem Weg von der Universität in der Hauptstadt Sanaa zu einem Platz nahe des Präsidentenpalastes, als sie von Unterstützern Salehs mit Knüppeln und Messern angegriffen wurden.

Es war bereits der sechste Tag in Folge, an dem in Sanaa gegen Präsident Ali Abdullah Saleh protestiert wird. Die Aktionen gehen von Studenten aus, denen sich bei ihrem Marsch durchs Stadtzentrum stets weitere Regimegegner anschließen. Proteste in Jemen gibt es aber nicht erst seit den Aufständen in Tunesien und Ägypten.

Atiaf al-Wazir, eine 27-jährige Internetaktivistin, sagte gegenüber ND, dass es am Dienstag in den Städten Aden und Taizz zu weitaus schlimmeren Gewaltanwendungen der Sicherheitskräfte gegen Demonstranten gekommen sei als in Sanaa. »In Aden fielen Schüsse, und in Taizz gab es 23 Verletzte. In diesen Städten gehen auch insgesamt mehr Menschen auf die Straße als in Sanaa. Am Dienstag waren es allein in Taizz 20 000, von denen 40 verhaftet wurden.«

In Sanaa sei der Durchschnittsbürger noch nicht Teil der Protestbewegung geworden, berichtet Atiaf al-Wazir. Dies bleibe bisher einem Teil der gebildeten Oberschicht, vorwiegend Studenten, vorbehalten. Seit Montag sehe man auch Rechtsanwälte in ihren schwarzen Roben. In Taizz dagegen handele es sich bei den Demonstranten um eine Graswurzelbewegung. Taizz verfügt zwar über eine Textilindustrie und Gerbereien, doch den Menschen in der Hauptstadt geht es im Durchschnitt etwas besser als der Bevölkerung in der Provinz. Vor allem der Süden des Landes, so behaupten Südjemeniten, profitiere weniger als der Norden an den Erdöleinnahmen.

Bei Gesprächen zwischen der Opposition und der Regierung sei bisher nichts herausgekommen, meint gegenüber ND Christoph Wilcke, der für Human Rights Watch die Lage in Jemen beobachtet. »Der nationale Dialog stockt. Zwar versprach Präsident Saleh der Opposition einen konstruktiven Dialog, ließ dieser Ankündigung aber bisher keine Taten folgen.«

Eine Vereinigung, die sich »Demokratischer Block« nennt, hat zu Beginn der Woche die parlamentarische Opposition als Schergen des Auslands verunglimpft, die nichts für das Wohl Jemens tun und nur politisches Kapital aus dem sogenannten nationalen Dialog und den Protesten auf der Straße zu schlagen versuchen, berichtete Wilcke. Auch südjemenitische Separatisten haben die parlamentarische Opposition scharf verurteilt, weil sie sich zu Gesprächen mit dem »Tyrannen und Diktator Saleh« hinreißen lasse.

Laut Wilcke kommt es in jüngster Zeit vermehrt zu schweren Repressionen gegen die Presse. »Journalisten verschwinden in Sanaa von den Straßen. Auch wenn die Regierung dies leugnet – der Staat ist allein dafür verantwortlich. Seit Mai 2009 gibt es in Sanaa einen Sondergerichtshof, der einzig und allein darauf ziele, Dissidenten mundtot zu machen. Auch sei ein Paragraf des Strafgesetzes, mit dem Journalisten verfolgt werden, sehr fragwürdig formuliert.

Deshalb kritisiert Wilcke die Haltung von Außenminister Guido Westerwelle und Entwicklungsminister Dirk Niebel, die sich bei ihren Besuchen nicht deutlich genug zu Menschenrechtsverletzungen äußern. »Sie reden nicht Tacheles, um den vom Regime verursachten Menschenrechtskatastrophen Einhalt zu gebieten. Doch ohne und nachhaltigen politischen Druck von außen wird es keine Veränderungen in Jemen geben.« Die Bundesregierung tue so, als ob Jemen ein armes, unterentwickeltes Land mit sich daraus zwangsläufig ergebenden Problemen sei. »Aber es gibt konkrete Kräfte hinter diesen Konflikten, die man abstellen kann, wenn der politische Wille da wäre«, ist Wilcke überzeugt.

ND-Karte: Wolfgang Wegener

Interview: Spanish Daily Elpais



1 ¿Cómo ves la situación actual de tu país?

Yemen ha sido inestable durante los últimos dos años. Tenemos muchos problemas: déficit económico, grave crisis del agua, la corrupción es una epidemia, alto desempleo, los jóvenes menores de 18 años representan aproximadamente la mitad de la población, los problemas en el norte con los rebeldes Houthi, el Movimiento del Sur exigiendo sus derechos, la presencia de Al Qaeda, y un sistema tribal muy complicado con lealtades diversas e históricas. Todos estos temas se ven agravados por un sistema de Gobierno corrupto que no ofrece nada al pueblo.

2 ¿Cuáles son los principales problemas de los jóvenes?

Los jóvenes están divididos sobre lo que quieren y sus prioridades. Algunos quieren una solución política a través de la reforma, otros ya no creen en la reforma y desean que el presidente sea derrocado, y otros quieren que todo el sistema cambie. Pero todos están de acuerdo en que las reformas siguientes son necesarias:
• Hay un número muy elevado de jóvenes, la mayoría de los cuales no encuentra trabajo. El desempleo es una importante fuente de frustración para la juventud. Todos los puestos de trabajo importantes son monopolio de la familia del presidente. Controlan el Ejército, la seguridad nacional, las empresas nacionales más importantes, etc
• Necesidad de una reforma educativa.
• La corrupción en todos los aspectos de la sociedad es muy problemática. Es evidente en las escuelas y en la búsqueda de trabajo o en otro cualquier aspecto.

3 ¿Estás siguiendo las noticias sobre otros países?

Sí, por supuesto. Los yemeníes hemos observado con gran placer los eventos en Túnez y en Egipto. Muchos lloraron viendo las noticias, porque demostraron que es posible tener esperanza en que el cambio ocurra, y que los manifestantes pacíficos pueden marcar la diferencia. Grupos en Taiz han aprendido de los activistas jóvenes egipcios la manera de movilizarse y organizarse. Se han dividido en grupos comunitarios que trabajan específicamente en distintos sectores: comité de organización, de limpieza, de seguridad, etc Una cosa en la que todos los jóvenes están de acuerdo y admiran de Túnez y Egipto, es que lo hicieron pacíficamente, y les gustaría lo mismo para Yemen. En las protestas siempre se cantan eslóganes como "pacíficos, pacíficos, sin puñales ni armas”.

4 ¿Cómo crees que van a evolucionar las protestas? ¿Qué dice la gente en la calle?

La gente tiene sentimientos encontrados, algunos creen que aquí la gente no aguantará. Pero otros dicen que debemos fijarnos en Taiz y Adén, dos ciudades donde hay un gran número de manifestantes, a pesar de ser agredidos, que siguen reuniéndose, movilizándose y organizándose. Si las cosas cambian, no será en Sanaa, sino que el cambio vendrá de las gobernaciones exteriores.
El cambio es inevitable, pero puede que no ocurra ahora… Es probable que en Yemen requiera más tiempo, pero sucederá. El pueblo ya no será silenciado. El gobierno tiene una oportunidad de oro para emprender reformas. Si fuesen serios, deberían responder a las demandas políticas de la oposición y hacer reformas reales, lo que disminuiría las probabilidades de protestar en la calle. Pero como no parece que se esté poniendo en marcha ninguna reforma real, el pueblo ya no cree en ellos, y más gente se une a las protestas. Además, la respuesta violenta del personal de seguridad hace que el gobierno quede mal, y demuestra que este Gobierno no se toma las reformas en serio.

5 ¿Qué papel están jugando las redes sociales en las protestas?

Aunque sólo el 2% de los yemeníes usan Internet, los medios de comunicación social desempeñan un papel importante de dos formas: permiten a la gente expresarse y conectar, y lo más importante, facilita la difusión de información al mundo. Noticias que al Gobierno le gustaría censurar se propagan a través de vídeos, fotografías, etc... al minuto.

6 ¿Qué opinas sobre el futuro de los árabes? ¿Pasará por la democracia?

Estoy muy esperanzada porque estos son momentos emocionantes. Nunca pensé que podría ver el cambio en toda mi vida, pero lo he visto. No obstante, estoy un poco preocupada porque no se trata solo de cambiar una persona, sino todo un sistema, con una visión a largo plazo.

Sunday, February 13, 2011

A day in hell (in a public office)


While activists are fighting a big reform battle in the streets of Sana’a, I am fighting for my husband’s right to obtain residency in the public offices of Yemen. I moved back to my beloved country of birth about four months ago with a foreign husband. It has taken me three months to try and notarize our wedding contract in order for him to be able to get his residency here. Although we were already married abroad, we needed to get “permission” to get married from the Ministry of Interior, and a lot of bureaucratic paper work.

Family members were quick to inform me that this process is too complicated, and that I needed a “fixer” to help me get all the papers done. I naively said, no thanks, we’ll do it our selves. After all, we at least have to try. In three months, we got signatures from the Ministry of Interior and from three bureaucratic institutions: national security, political security, and criminal investigation; all certifying their approval for marriage. Now we needed to pick up these papers from the immigration office.

On Monday January 24, 2011, my husband and I headed to the national security desk, room 68, at the immigration office. Entering that room, I saw a grumpy man in his late thirties and five people waiting. We sat on the chair until he looked our way.

My husband: “We are here to pick up a paper for our marriage approval”.

National security man: “Where are you from?”

Husband: “France”

Man: “Are you Muslim?”

Husband: “Yes.”

Man: “What are the five pillars of Islam?”

My husband: “Shahada, fasting, zakat, Hajj.. and,” one slipped his mind.

Me: “We got married abroad, and we already got the approval here, we just need to pick up the paper.”

Him: “Oh since you are already married, it’s a very complicated situation.”

Me: “What situation? There’s nothing complicated at all, we already got the minister’s signature, we are here only to pick up one paper that was sent here.”


At this point, he turned to everyone in the room, and said: “Get out, I would like to speak to them in private.” Then the interrogation started. “Which branch of the family are you from, where are you working? Is it an international organization? etc..” He continued to ask me details about my job.

Man: “Do you write reports at work?”

Me: “What do you mean?”

Man: “Do you write reports about your work?”

Me: “Umm of course I do.”

Man: “What do they consist of?”

Me: “Umm it depends. Reports about activities we do with the orphans. Houses we visited, events we plan, budgets, that sort of thing. But what does this have to do with my husband’s residency?”

Man: “Um…..well we are national security.. we need to know.”

Me: “Ummm okkk!”

Man: “Well don’t worry, I’ll help you. Just go to room 94 and fill out two forms then come back here.”



We went to room 94, filled out the forms and returned. Then he asked us for more documents.

Me: “Why do we need to fill out all these documents? We are only here to pick up a paper.”

Man: “No one told you to marry a foreigner!” Then he said: “If I call you and ask you for something, will you help?

Me: “Huh, what kind of help?”

Him in an annoyed tone: “You are a smart girl, you know what I’m talking about!”

Me: “No I don’t know.”

Him: “You know what I mean, I need hag alaytam.. (loosly translated as what you give orphans).

Me: “What???!”



At this point he got really impatient and very irritated and asked the two men sitting in the office to leave. He looked at my husband and asked him to leave as well and said: “I need to speak to her alone.”

Me: “But he is my husband. He should stay.”

Man: “No, I need to speak to you alone.”

My husband: “Why does she need to be here alone? Aib “

The man’s face turned red and he started shouting: “You can’t tell me what is aib in my own country. What is aib about this huh?! I can send you back to your country right now for being an extremist.”

My husband: “I just do not understand why you are insisting for me to leave my wife here alone!”

To calm the situation, I swallowed my pride, interjected and actually APOLOGIZED to the man.



I thought it was over, but then the man flipped through the papers, turned to me again and said:

Man: “Why didn’t you write your mobile number.”

Me: “I wrote my house and work number. I think that’s enough.”

Man: “No I need your mobile number now.”

Me: “Fine, here it is.”

Him: “If I said Yemeni national security needs your help, would you help?”

Me: “It depends on what you need.”

Him: “Orphans reports.”

Me: “That’s confidential, but I will ask my boss.”

Him: “No, without asking him. I need the reports?”

Me: “No I can’t do that.”

Him: “Even for national security?”

Me: “Yes even.”

Him: “Do you really not understand what I am talking about?”

Me: “No I don’t.”

Him: “Aren’t you Yemeni?”

Me: “Yes I am!”

Him: “Ok well, never mind, I am just kidding. I am testing your nationalism to see whether you are ready to help national security or not. Now don’t go back to your job and tell them I asked for reports, they will laugh at you.” He gave us the paper and said mabrook. Mabrook? Mabrook for what? For making me want to cry and shout.


After we left, it hit me that “reports” were a code word for “money.” Anger against this ultimate abuse of power consumed me. Although this is just one personal account, it is representative of a dangerous epidemic. His last question “Aren’t you Yemeni?” illustrates my point. Bribes are not just appreciated, they became necessary. Yemenis deal with this on a daily basis, but we should not accept it as part of our society and we should refuse to let the culture of fear rule us. We cannot complain about corruption if we are not doing anything to combat it. The least we can do is expose those who abuse power.

I am a law-abiding citizen, and I am a little worried because my husband’s residency process is not complete yet. However, if anyone should be fearful it should be the corrupt public servants who do not serve the public but serve their own interests.

* Published in the Yemen Times, 10-02-2011

Friday, November 19, 2010

"I'm a Yemeni, I'm not a terrorist" Initiative

الأخوة الأعزاء،

سئم الكثيرون مما تتحدث به وسائل الإعلام المرئية والمكتوبة والمسموعة عن اليمنيين كـ«إرهابيين» وكـأرض مفتوحة للقاعدة. نحن بحاجة الى التحدث الى العالم بلسان الحقيقة لنبيّن لهم أن اليمن ليست أرضا للإرهاب. نريد أن يطلع العالم على حقيقتنا الأصيلة لا كما يصفها الإعلام المغرض. إننا أمة لها تقاليدها الإنسانية الرفيعة، ومثلها العليا، ومادئها الإسلامية السامية.ولهذا السبب ومن أجل إيضاح الحقيقة قرر البعض منا ان يخرج فيديو قصير ا بعنوان “أنا يمني. أنا مش إرهابي"، مشابها لذلك الفيديو الذي أخرجه مجموعن من المسلمين في أمريكا (http://www.youtube.com/watch؟v=DImb7jvSbaw).

سيحتوي الفيديو على معلومات ملخصة من مختلف المناطق والهويات والمهن. ستكون النصوص قصيرة ومركزة باللغة العربية وترجمة باللغة الانجليزية . إننا نود ممن يقرأ هذه الرسالفة أن يسهم معنا في هذا المسعى حتى نتمكن من إنتاج فيديو جيد يعطي فكرة حقيقة عن سلوك مجتمعنا الرافض للإرهاب، على الا يتجاوز -ونحن في زمن السرعة- 5 دقائق. إننا نبحث عن يمنيين أصحاب المهن التالية : طبيب ، مسؤول حكومي، شيخ ، فنان، صحفي، عامل في المنظمات غير الحكومية، مغني، رياضي، محامي، ضابط وضابطة شرطة، مهندس، إمام مسجد، استاذ جامعة ، حاخام يهودي، مدرس او مدرسة الخ...

فمن يجد في نفسه الرغبة أن يسهم معنا بالتواصل مشكورا مع:

أطياف زيد الوزير: atiaf.alwazir@gmail.com

Dear all,

Many of us Yemenis are sick and tired of the media's constant portrayal of Yemenis as «terrorists» in a land that welcomes alqaeda. We need to speak out and show the world that we are not what the media says we are. We are a nation and a people with humanitarian traditions and moral ideals. For this reason, and in order to clarify the truth, some of us decided to make a very short clip entitled “I am Yemeni. I am not a Terrorist” that will be similar to this video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DImb7jvSbaw).

We have a short script that we would like people to follow for a better video production. We will feature Yemenis from various backgrounds, cities, and professions. The clip will be in Arabic with English subtitles. We hope that whoever reads this message will contribute in whatever way they can, so we can produce a good video that will not exceed 5 minutes. We are looking for Yemenis in the following professions: doctor, government official, sheikh, artist, journalist, NGO worker, singer, athlete, lawyer, female police officer, Imam, engineer, Rabbi, and professor, teacher etc.

If you are interested in being featured in this clip or in helping in any way please contact me at

Atiaf.Alwazir@gmail.com




"I'm a Yemeni. I'm not a terrorist" Initiative

Dear all,

Many of us Yemenis are sick and tired of the media's constant portrayal of Yemenis as «terrorists» in a land that welcomes alqaeda. We need to speak out and show the world that we are not what the media says we are. We are a nation and a people with humanitarian traditions and moral ideals. For this reason, and in order to clarify the truth, some of us decided to make a very short clip entitled “I am Yemeni. I am not a Terrorist” that will be similar to this video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DImb7jvSbaw).

We have a short script that we would like people to follow for a better video production. We will feature Yemenis from various backgrounds, cities, and professions. The clip will be in Arabic with English subtitles. We hope that whoever reads this message will contribute in whatever way they can, so we can produce a good video that will not exceed 5 minutes. We are looking for Yemenis in the following professions: doctor, government official, sheikh, artist, journalist, NGO worker, singer, athlete, lawyer, female police officer, Imam, engineer, Rabbi, and professor, teacher etc.

If you are interested in being featured in this clip or in helping in any way please write me a comment here.

Thanks!
Atiaf

Thursday, November 18, 2010

Facebook the bearer of bad news

Today, like many days I went on facebook expecting to get the usual updates from friends and family, view some new photos, and watch funny videos or news clips. I also wanted to post a message to my friend Jehan Shaheen's wall to get the usual girly update on her love life, and to write her a message telling her that she can't have fun at the beach without me, because after all, the best beach trip was the one we took together! Well, it turns out she didn't have fun at all because she never got to the beach.

when I got to her wall, I was so confused. I saw messages saying "البقية في حياتك يا جيهان"..... What?? what does that mean? No way, this can't happen!! I was to see her again the next time I went to Cairo. The more messages I read, the more it was confirmed. Jehan has passed away!!! On the road to Nwaiba'a, they got in a fatal car accident. I don't know the details. I never told Jehan how proud I was to know such a strong amazing Egyptian activist like herself. I never told her many things. I hope that I can still tell her, after all, “Death ends a life, not a relationship.”

I know that I never told you all how much you mean to me. You have my life and each one of you stamped it in your own special way. You mean so much to me, and I am so happy to have you in my life. Please know that no matter how far we are, you are part of my life, and I love you very much.

Jehan's last facebook status updates was

يطير الحمام، يحط الحمام،اعيدي لي الأرض لأستريح

the pigeon flies; the pigeon lands, return me to the land so I can rest.

God has returned her to the land where she will rest in peace, inshallah. Please pray for my friend Jehan.

Thursday, October 21, 2010

The Yemeni Index-How Yemeni Are You?

All my life I dreamt of returning to my birth place Sana’a. This is the place where I spent the first year of my life, and of course occasional summer vacations. Every now and then I fantasized about “returning” to a place I never really lived. I talked to friends about options for work, but then always failed to take the last step of moving. One day, I decided to move to Cairo, which rejuvenated me with its spirit of life. It is also the place where I met my soul-mate, Ben. It was Ben who gave me the final push to move to my Yemen.

Yesterday marked our one month “anniversary” of living in Sana’a. I came to Sana’a numerous times before, but this time it was different. Arriving with the mentality that we “moved” here and that my dream to live in my birth place came true, filled me with excitement, fear, and emotional reflection. This first month was very emotional for many reasons:

One, I am living in the family home where I was born. When I look out, I think about how my grandparents, parents, uncles and aunts all walked, ate, and slept in this same place. When I look at the room upstairs, I think about the very difficult labor that my mom went through on November 4, 1979 (when I was born). I can’t help but wonder what my life would look like if we had never moved. Would I be the same person I am today?

Second, I had such high expectations of what living in Yemen would be like. I hold our traditions and culture in a very high state, but now I am confronted with the reality that my beliefs are too idealistic for any people; and that, naively pains me.

Third, and most difficult is that I feel alien sometimes. Although Yemenis are VERY welcoming, I had expectations that I would fit in society right away. After all, I AM Yemeni, right? But how “Yemeni” am I? What is the index to measure Yemeniness? I think this index is the level of adherence to cultural norms and regulations, including gender and class roles.

For some things, I am very Yemeni. I speak the language fluently with a Sana’ani accent that I’ve been told is very good, especially for someone who never lived in the country. I love Yemeni food, enjoy qat every now and then, love Yemeni music, architecture, and love family gatherings. But at the same time, I am married to a French man, I have been traveling alone since I was 12, I smile in the street and talk to strange men, and I attend mix gatherings. This really confuses some Yemenis. Some of the more “educated” Yemenis and the “elite” of Yemen seem to accept all the above, what confuses them is that I take the dabbab (mini bus) on my daily commute to work, I love local grocery stores, I drink tea at the local tea market (with men), and God forbid I buy my own meat from the butcher. (good girls from a certain class should NOT go to the butcher).

So, it seems I don’t necessarily adhere to gender or class cultural norms of society, and therefore categorizing me based on my gender or class becomes extremely difficult, and it makes me an anomaly in this city of similarities and unchanged attitudes. The fact that I went against some traditions, not only confuses people, but also sometimes offends them. Nevertheless, I hope that my love for Yemen and Yemenis is enough to allow me to keep the title of “Yemenia”. I hope that my fellow Yemenis can understand that in this globalized world it's not a contradiction to be be proud of my heritage, hold on to my individuality, and become a citizen of the world, all at the same time.

Thursday, March 4, 2010

Ten Thoughts on Yemen

1) When you are reading the news from outside the country you feel that Sana’a is under fire. It’s really not, other cities may be, but not Sana’a, so feel free to visit.

2) Every time I visit Yemen, the beauty of the architecture and buildings amazes me.

3) Although brown is still a dark color, wearing a brown abaya instead of a black one is an unconventional move that could bring about a great deal of discussion. Some will “love your bold move, and hope that all women start wearing colored abayas." Others will wonder why you want to “bring too much attention to yourself.” But most importantly, everyone in the street will assume you are NOT Yemeni.

4) Since people assumed I was “foreign” because of my brown abaya, I let them believe that. I learned that foreign women have a lot more access to enjoy the city. They can enjoy a nice shay bil7aleeb (tea with milk) and eat kabob in the old city, and no one will ask min bait man (which family are you from)? No one will give them strange looks because they are not supposed to be there, and no one will talk badly about them! Instead, they warmly welcome them to the country. I wish men acted the same way towards women from their own country.

5) The word al-wihdah (unity) sprung up everywhere. Alwihdah supermarket, alwihdah barber, alwihdah school, and even alwihdah Kleenex. I guess that’s the government’s grand plan for preserving unity!

6) The Saleh mosque is seriously misplaced! It really does NOT fit in Sana’a. You can see the mosque from almost anywhere in the city, and from wherever you are you will notice the sharp contrast between the neighboring houses and the grand mosque. It’s a remarkable symbol of ultimate power and corruption in a land of poverty.

7) It is easy for terrorists to operate in Yemen, they just have to put on a lithma (niqab) and no one will check.

8) I sometimes feel like I completely belong in Yemen, but other times I feel like I’m a total stranger in my own city of birth.

9) Everyone is on facebook and I mean EVERYONE! Whether they are your friend or not, they will look at your pictures, and it will be the topic of discussion during lunch or qat sessions. Then you will never hear the end of it from extended family members!

10) Although the political situation keeps getting worse, the Special Olympics ceremony that we attended gave me hope that things can improve. It was an amazing opportunity that showed me that when there is a will we can actually make great things happen.